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Hey, new and looking for some advice.

3K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  beaglesmom 
#1 ·
Hey there,
My names Peter, I am 18 and live in derbyshire, England.

I hope to be getting a puppy Beagle over the next few weeks. I have nver kept a dog before although both of my parents have.

If i tell you abit about me and my different commitments and enviroment, then i would appriciate your advice on what is positive and what is negative (so i can get it sorted out) in terms for the puppy.

I live at home, an am currently inbetween jobs, although i will be working 9-5, but may be able to nip back at lunch time to see the puppy for half an hour. I have a big back garden and live about 30 seconds from a really nice, dog friendly park. I am an active person and everyone in the family is loving and caring.

I would really apprieciate any helpful comments that you are able to give me in the run up to me adopting my new puppy.

And i look forward to getting to know you all,

Thankyou,
Peter /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
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#2 ·
Beagles are a lot of work - we got Boomer when he was 10 weeks old last summer. But the hard work is SO worth it! You will learn a lot! Potty training is challenging but be patient and stick with it. Beagles do really well with positive reinforcement. Get him/her on a schedule. Crate train. If you haven't already, I would invest in few books about beagles to read up and prepare as much as possible. Two books I would recommend are "The Idiot's Guide to Beagles" and "Beagles for Dummies". Congrats on getting a beagle!!!!
 
#3 ·
First thing....buy a crate. My beagles are both 1 now, but they are still kept in a crate when we leave the house or when they sleep at night.

So far in my experience with beagles I find that the females are more likely to be hyper, clingy and demanding of your time and attention, whereas my males are more content to entertain themselves. Other people may feel differently, but I have had quite a few beagles pass through our home over the years and that seems pretty consistent.

I did not have a hard time with potty training either of the 2 beagles that I currently own. Just establish a schedule and pattern and the dogs will usually take to it pretty quickly.

cabecca19 offered good advice to read some Beagle books. I strongly recommend that as well.

Good luck to you and keep us up to date on your choices.
 
#5 ·
Hi and welcome! You have chosen a challenging breed, but probably the most rewarding one.

Any advice that was already given is great, and we'll probably be able to provide more and share stories along the way.

Crate training is the key for their housebreaking. And as Joe said, fence your yard.

Good-Luck!
 
#6 ·
Congratuations on choosing a beagle, and welcome to Beagle World.

The main lesson on puppies that I learned from raising Lucy and Flora is that you must train such that you are able to reward success (rather than punishing errors). For housetraining a puppy, this means that you must take the puppy out on a regular schedule appropriate to an "infant dog." A puppy will not be able to go 9 - 5 without a break. During puppyhood, my husband and I scheduled our work hours so that the puppy was not left alone for more than 4 hours. (My husband started work early so he could be home by 4, and I look a long lunch and worked late so that I could let the dogs out at noon.)

By "living at home," do you mean you live with your parents? Will your parents be able to help with the housetraining, when you do get a job? That mid-day break is vital for housetraining, but can be phased out as the puppy gets older.

Another thing to consider, before you actually get a puppy, is what your living arrangements will be in the future. At least in the States, many places do not allow pets. Are you willing to make the sacrifices necessary to find/live in the places that will allow dogs?

The other major piece of advice is to take the puppy to a training class, preferable one with a trainer/instructor familiar with hounds or terriers. The classes I have attended were most important to teach me HOW to train my dog, and especially to show me the difference between what I thought I was teaching, and what I was really teaching, from the dog's point of view. A lot of the lessons transferred well to children -- so it was good pre-parental training as well. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

Keep us posted, and best wishes.
Sylvia
 
#7 ·
thank you all very much for the warm welcome and the fantastic advice. We have an area of the garden that the beagle would be able to run around in in the summer, i dont think that i would be to happy leaving them out there any other time, especially with the English weather.

I am going to buy a book on them tomorrow and start to make inquires about local dog training schools and local breeders.

I shall then hopefully start to buy the essentials next week and adopt my new puppy the week after.

thank you again for the help and i will keep you posted.

Peter
 
#8 ·
I would definately buy a crate as already suggested.. but also working a 9-5 when they are puppies and only getting a half hour to let them out is not so good. i go to school in the morning and then work at night and i give diesel at least an hour in between, btw diesel is 4 months. he is really hyper and needs a while to let it out. i try to make him tired before he goes back in his kennel.

when he was younger and couldnt stay in his kennel long i had family come over to let him out and play with him for a bit.

as said to me from someone here "a tired puppy is a good puppy when putting him in the kennel"
 
#12 ·
Well, you can probably do whatever you want. But for housebreaking it's best that they are locked up when you can't watch them and be with them. The point is that when they are in the crate, it's big enough for them, but small enough for them not to pee/poop in their own "place". When you take the pup out, it's directly outside for potty, praise, praise, praise and then if not under your supervision - crate!
After a while it gets easier and they can be out for longer periods of time (under your supervision).
They actually like it and consider it to be their own "condo"...
 
#14 ·
I personally prefer the wire "cage" - but the plastic crates are better for traveling. When I have a litter of puppies going to the vet, they have a plastic "carrier". I have both kinds. Years ago I would have said that crating a dog was CRUEL. Now it's something I recommend to buyers of my puppies. It gives them a "safe place" when you're doing something or can't be watching them every minute. My two older boys and my two younger girls sleep in their crates, and are in there when I'm at work or away from home. Saves the house - and your sanity! They go in willingly - I don't use them for "punishment" - I also feed the big boys and little girls in their crates. With 10 dogs feeding is a zoo - so they're fed "separately" - at least not all 10 together.
Like others, I strongly suggest obedience training - here in the states they have "puppy kindergarten" classes for young puppies - and they're great. It's good for the pup - good for you - a win win situation. If you're getting a pup from a breeder, he or she can probably suggest classes.
Good luck with your new "baby". If you have any questions about anything, there's always someone with experience around!
Welcome to BW.
 
#16 ·
Hi Peter, I've never crate trained a puppy in my life but I do have a crate like the wire one that Chloe's Mommy posted a picture of. They are invaluable as a good place to put puppy when it's just impossible to keep an eye on them. Plus remember that beagles can be destructive chewers so a crate can keep them out of mischief when they can't be watched.

I used my kitchen instead of a crate so a utility room would do just as well. I put a baby gate at the doorway so puppy was contained if I needed to go upstairs or to the bathroom etc.

Good luck
 
#19 ·
Oh right. I have bought a book today and there is an 8 week course about 5 miles from mine starting in april, and there is a puppy that will be ready on the 23rd of March in derbyshire aswell, that is for ÂŁ600 ($1200 approx).

I also bought there first toy... a "puppy cuddle pad". You can put it in the microwave an give it to the puppy as a warm cuddly toy...how cools that?
 
#20 ·
Do not let the crate(cage) scare you, your dog will love it once its trained. Do some research on crate training, it will help you a lot especially if you are working. Yes, it is very challenging with pups, a beagle pup.
And be sure your neighbor won't mind the beagle's imfamous loud bark and arrrooo. I do not mean to be discouraging, once you adopt or purchase a beagle, you are to make a commitment along with the work, and fun also of course. Good luck!
 
#21 ·
Of course, you can use your utility room instead of a crate, BUT I don't recommend it. My house has two kitchens, the main one upstairs, and a "utilitarian" one down here in the basement. I kept one of my granddaughter's dog (not a beagle) in there when he was a pup - and he demolished every cabinet door he could reach - as well as chewing up door frames and anything else he could get his little teeth on. Beagles will do the same thing! A crate is NOT a bad thing. It's their "special space" - thier "den", even my older dogs who don't get crated, will often go into an empty crate for a nap. I always suggest a crate to buyers of my puppies. It's NOT cruel, it's their little "safe haven" - and a place where they can be when you can't be supervising them. You cannot supervise them every second of every day! It's so much SAFER for them - and for your house!
That said - here's an article from my beagle group on crate training.


Important things to remember
Choose a crate that is the proper size for your puppy as an adult dog
Introduce the crate slowly
Provide plenty of toys
Don't leave the puppy in the crate extended periods of time
Don't use the crate as punishment
Always supervise the puppy while not in his crate
A crate provides a home for your puppy. It is a place where he can feel safe, and a place for him to rest and sleep. When choosing a crate, be sure to consider the adult size of your puppy. We recommend a 200 or 300 Vari Kennel, depending on the predicted mature size of your dog.

After you have purchased your puppy's new home, introduce it to him slowly. Do not force him into the crate or he will never learn to enter on his own. Place toys and treats inside the crate. When the puppy enters the crate, give him lots of praise and then stop when the puppy exits. After the puppy is comfortable about going side, place his food dish in the crate. Feed all of his meals inside the crate, starting with the door open. Then close the door while he is eating, but make sure to open it as soon as he is finished. The puppy should soon feel at home inside his crate. Before leaving the puppy inside his crate while you are away, make sure to put him in it while you are home and leave the room. Naturally the puppy will cry at first, he misses you! If the puppy continues to cry and/or bark, enter the room so that he can see you, but do not let him out. Once the puppy realizes that you always come back, he will adjust to be in the crate without you present.

Make sure you provide plenty of toys for your puppy. While he is in his crate, he will occupy himself with his toys. He will then be less likely to chew on other things and be destructive when outside the crate. This does NOT mean that the puppy won't get into trouble and chew on things, but it does mean that he will be less likely too. Also, you can easily distract a destructive puppy by offering a favorite toy to play with. Your puppy would much rather play with you and his toys, but any dog will become destructive when ignored. He's trying to get your attention!

When housebreaking your puppy, you should never leave the puppy unattended in the crate for long periods of time. Your puppy can only "hold" it for a few hours (Remember that even some adult dogs cannot wait 8 hours while you are at work). Left in the crate for too long, he will be forced to go inside. Dogs are naturally clean, and dislike eliminating close to where they sleep. This is the advantage of using crates for house training. Puppy will not be happy to return to the crate after he has had an accident inside it.

You should never use the crate as a punishment. It is OK to put the puppy inside the crate if he has been bad, or had an accident in the house. The puppy should go willingly into the crate, even if he may cry at first. Puppy should be comfortable with being inside the crate.

To avoid puppy accidents inside the house, always make sure the puppy is under constant supervision while not inside the crate. Most accidents are not the puppy's fault, but the owner's. The puppy should monitored for any signs of needing to go outside and taken out immediately.

WHAT IS A DOG CRATE?
A dog crate is a rectangular enclosure with a top and a door, made in a variety of sizes proportioned to fit any type of dog. Constructed of wire, wood, metal, or molded fiberglass/plastic, its purpose is to provide guaranteed confinement for reasons of security, safety, housebreaking, protection of household goods, travel, illness, or just general control.

The dog crate has long been accepted, trusted, and taken for granted by dog show exhibitors, obedience trainers, breeders, veterinarians, and anyone else who handles dogs regularly. Individual pet owners, however, usually reject the idea of using a crate because they consider such enforced close confinement unfair, and even harmful, to the dog.

CRUELTY - OR KINDNESS?

As The Pet Owner Sees It: "It's like a jail-it's cruel-I'd never put MY dog in a cage like that!" If this is your first reaction to using a crate, you are a very typical pet owner. As a reasoning human being, you really value your freedom. Since you consider your pet an extension of the human family, it's only natural to feel that closing him in a crate would be mean and inhumane, would probably cause him to resent and even to hate you, and might well result in psychological damage.

BUT - YOU ARE NOT A DOG!

As The Dog Sees It:

"I love having a room/house of my very own; it's my private special place, my 'security blanket' and the closed door really doesn't bother me." If your dog could talk, this is how he might well express his reaction to using a crate! He would tell you that the crate helps to satisfy the "den instinct" inherited from his den-dwelling ancestors and relatives, and that he is not afraid or frustrated when closed in. He would further admit that he is actually much happier and more secure having his life controlled and structured by human beings-and would far rather be prevented from causing trouble than be punished for it later.

SO ... to you it may be a "cage"- to him, it's "home."

WHY USE A CRATE?

A dog crate, correctly and humanely used, can have many advantages for both you and your pet. With the help of a crate you can:

Enjoy complete peace of mind when leaving your dog home alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed and that he is comfortable, protected, and not developing any bad habits;
Housebreak your dog more quickly by using the close confinement to encourage control, establish a regular routine for outdoor elimination, and to prevent "accidents" at night or when left alone;
Effectively confine your dog at times when he may be underfoot (meals, family activities), unwelcome (guests, workmen etc.), over-excited or bothered by too much confusion or too many children, or ill;
Travel with your dog without risk of the driver being dangerously distracted or the dog getting loose and hopelessly lost, and with the assurance that he can easily adapt to any strange surroundings as long as he has his familiar "security blanket" along;
Your dog can:

Enjoy the privacy and security of a "den" of his own to which he can retreat when tired, stressed, or ill;
Avoid much of the fear/confusion/punishment caused by your reaction to problem behavior;
More easily learn to control his bowels and to associate elimination only with the outdoors or other designated location;
Be spared the loneliness and frustration having to be isolated (basement, garage, outside) from comfortable indoor surroundings when being restricted or left alone;
Be conveniently included in family outings, visits, and trips instead of being left behind alone at home or in a boarding kennel.
You want to enjoy your pet and be pleased with his behavior ... Your dog wants little more from life than to please you ... A dog crate can help to make your relationship what each of you wants and needs it to be.

USE - BUT DON'T ABUSE

The use of a dog crate is NOT recommended for a dog which must be frequently or regularly left alone for extended periods of time-such as all or much of the day while the owner is away at work, school etc. If it is attempted, the dog must be well exercised both before and after crating, given lots of personal positive attention, and be allowed complete freedom at night (including sleeping near his owner. Do not leave food and water during the day as this will only stimulate the puppy to eliminate in the crate and house training will be difficult. In the case of a puppy, the crate must be used strictly as a "play-pen" for general confinement, having plenty of space for sleeping at one end and papers for elimination at the other. Although a puppy can be raised in this manner, the limited human supervision may result in his being poorly adjusted socially and difficult to housebreak and to train in general. Crate or no crate, any dog constantly denied the human companionship it needs and craves is going to be a lonely pet-and may still find ways to express anxiety, depression, and general stress.

WHAT KIND OF CRATE IS BEST?

I personally prefer the fiberglass/plastic airline crate because they are easier to clean, they keep hair in the crate. A puppy that has an accident in the crate will typically step all in the elimination and wire crates are difficult to clean with stool everywhere.

WHAT SIZE SHOULD A CRATE BE? A crate should always be large enough to permit any age dog to stretch out flat on his side without being cramped and to sit up without hitting his head on the top. It is always better to use a crate a little too large than one a little too small. For a fully grown adult dog, measure the distance from tip of nose to base (not tip) of tail and use a crate close to, but not less than, this length. The height and width of most crates are properly proportioned to the length, including the convenient wire "slant-front" models designed to fit station wagons and hatchbacks. For a puppy, measure as above, than add about 12" for anticipated rapid growth. If a small crate is unavailable for temporary use, reduce the space of an adult size one (width can serve for length if the crate is large) with a reversed carton or a moveable/removable partition made of wire, or wood. Remember that a crate too large for a young puppy defeats its purpose of providing security and promoting bowel control, so its space should always be limited in the beginning- except when being used as an over-all pen (see "Use-But Don't Abuse" section.)

WHERE CAN I GET ONE? New crates can be purchased in retail pet shops and discount pet food/supplies outlets ( ), dog equipment catalogs, or from a crate manufacturer; prices depend on size, quality, and make. Wal-Mart and K-Mart carry the plastic airline type crate at reasonable prices. Most wire crate brands include a removable metal pan/tray/floor and some can be specially ordered with the door on the side instead of the end. The less expensive brands are quite adequate for most family pets, although those made of non-plated/treated wire may discolor the coat of a light colored dog. A used crate can often be borrowed, or found at a tag/garage/yard/rummage sale at a bargain price. EVEN THE MOST EXPENSIVE DOG CRATE, HOWEVER, IS A "BARGAIN" WHEN COMPARED TO THE COST OF REPAIRING OR REPLACING A SOFA, CHAIR, WOODWORK, WALLPAPER, OR CARPETING!

WHERE SHOULD I PUT IT? Since one of the main reasons for using a crate is to confine a dog without making him feel isolated or banished, it should be placed in. or as close as possible to, a "people" area- kitchen, family room etc. To provide an even greater sense of den security and privacy, it should be put in a corner and if a wire crate have the sides and back loosely draped with a sheet, large towel, or light blanket which can easily be adjusted for desired visibility or air. The top of a wire crate, when covered with a piece of plywood can also serve as handy extra shelf or table space. Admittedly, a dog crate is not a "thing of beauty"-but it can be forgiven for not being a welcome addition to the household decor as it proves how much it can help the dog to remain a welcome addition to the household!

CRATING THE PUPPY: A young puppy (8-16 weeks) should normally have no problem accepting a crate as his "own place." Any complaining he might do at first is caused not by the crate, but by his learning to accept the controls of his unfamiliar new environment. Actually, the crate will help him to adapt more easily and quickly to his new world.

HOW TO USE IT: Place the crate in a "people" area-the kitchen, if possible, in a spot free from drafts and not too near a direct heat source. For bedding, use an old towel or piece of blanket which can be washed (should he have an accident) and some freshly worn unlaundered article of your clothing such as a tee shirt, old shirt, sweater etc. Avoid putting newspaper in or under the crate, since its odor may encourage elimination; corrugated cardboard is better if there is no floor pan. A puppy will only upset a dish of water, unless you purchase one of the metal ones which lock onto the door. Make it very clear to children that the crate is NOT a playhouse for them, but a "special room" for the puppy, whose rights should be recognized and respected. However, you should accustom the puppy from the start to letting you reach into the crate at any time, lest he become overprotective of it. Establish a "crate routine" immediately, closing the puppy in it at regular 1 to 2 hour intervals during the day (his own chosen nap times will guide you) and whenever he must be left alone for up to 3-4 hours. Give him a chew toy (e.g.. Hoof or special favorite toy) for distraction and be sure to remove collar and tags which could become caught in an opening. At night, in the beginning, you may prefer to place the crate, with the door left open and newspapers nearby, in a small enclosed area such as a bathroom, laundry room, or hall. Crying or complaining at 5:00 AM is easier to endure ignore if you know that the puppy is not uncomfortable. However it also means he is telling you he need to go out and housetraining will be expedited, if you respond to this and get up and take him out and then put him back in his area and go back to bed yourself! Once adjusted to his new life, and if he has no intestinal upset, he will soon show greater bowel control by eliminating only once, or not at all, and then maybe crated all night in his regular place. Even if things do not go too smoothly at first DON'T WEAKEN and DON'T WORRY; be consistent, be firm, and be very aware that you are doing your pet a real favor by preventing him from getting into trouble while left alone. Increase the space inside the crate as the pup grows so that he remains comfortable. If you choose not to, or are not able, to use a crate permanently, plan to use it for at least 5 or 6 months. By then the dog is well past the teething stage-then start leaving the crate door open, when someone is at home during the day, and when he is briefly left alone. If all goes well for week or two, and the dog seems reliable when alone, remove the crate itself and leave a dog bed (with the plastic/airline type-just leave the bottom half as the bed) in the same spot. Although he will probably miss the crate enclosure, that spot will have be "his own place" and his habit of good behavior should continue. Should any problem occur at a future time, however, even after a long period without a crate, a dog that has been raised in one will readily accept it should the need arise for travel, illness, behavior problems etc. and may really welcome its return.
 
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