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Does anyone have a food aggressive beag? I mean I've read about some beags being food aggressive but I didn't think Chase was seeing that he'll eat right out of my hand...

Well last night Chase robbed the trash can again. Usually we just tell him "no no" and take back whatever he took. But this time Chase was not having it. He tried to ATTACK my husband. I thought this was so out of character and it's no exaggeration. He kept jumping at him snapping and barking with his hair standing up on his back. (Trying to protect that darn bone he got out of the trash). We're now concerned that he could possibly bite our son. Because he growled at my son for being too close to him while he was eating a pigs ear earlier on. He's never done this with me though, EVER! So seeing it I was in complete shock.

So we're trying to train him not to be so food aggressive... Any pointers? Thanks in Advance! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 

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I have a couple who are a little "possessive" of their food - and that is easily taken care of by just feeding them separately. Lottie is one of my "smallest" beagles, but also the one who is MOST food aggressive. I think it comes from her early life as a "kennel dog" - she was born into a huge kennel (over 100 dogs) and I think she had to be a little aggressive to EAT. With 10 beagles, I have a little "routine" - the two older males, Romeo and Tanna are fed in their crates, the two youngest girls are fed together (they share a crate) in their crate, Lottie is fed in the bathroom (she now considers that HER DINING ROOM and runs to the door when she seems the food bucket), JoJo and Princess will try to get each other's food, but will back off if I tell them "no", Chloe either eats in an "empty crate" (she is NOT food aggressive so I put her there so she can eat undisturbed) or in my room. That leaves Joe and Jack and my daughter's dog, Buster - who eat in the family room.
I've NEVER had one of my dogs attack me for taking something away from them - let me see what I can find on food aggression in my beagle group and get back to you.
 
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Okay Chase is acting really strange. He just attacked my son. (The growling and barking and jumping at him and my husband had to capture him and lock him away in his kennel) He bit my son... My son wasn't even playing with him. He's become really aggressive over nothing. My son came in the computer room to talk to us and Chase was under my chair playing with his toys and my son came a little to close to his toy (not even thinking about Chase or the toys) and he was bitten. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif :nono5:
 

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I just browsed that site - and found it has a lot of information - including about dog foods - let me know what YOU think about it.
 

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Since this aggression is totally uncharacteristic behaviour for Chase, I would suggest a trip to the vet. Often when dogs (and people) don't feel well, they're more likely to be "snappy" - so I'd rule out any physical cause for the behaviour.
Here's an article I found on Beagle Bay about canine aggression.
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http://www.canismajor.com/dog/aggres1.html#Types
Types of aggression
There are several types of aggression: defensive or induced by fear, pain, or punishment; dominant; possessive; territorial; intra-sexual (male-to-male or female-to-female); predatory; or parental. A dog may exhibit more than one type of aggression.

Dominant-aggressive dogs are characterized as confident, macho, and "on the muscle." They stand tall, up on their toes, with their ears up and forward. They carry their tails high and wag it slowly and stiffly from side to side. They often have their hackles up, stare menacingly, and emit a low growl with lips pursed and teeth exposed. They will place a paw on the shoulder of another dog, mount people's legs, and push children aside when going through a door. Dominant-aggressive dogs are demanding of attention. They demand to go outside, demand excessive affection, are possessive of their sleeping areas, and stop eating when approached. Many of these dogs will not obey commands, especially submissive commands (such as "down" or "wait"). Males lift their legs on everything, even in the house, even if their bladder is empty. Most dominant-aggressive dogs are purebred males.

Defensive-aggressive dogs are much more ambivalent in their behavior. They display submissive body language (ears back, often flat against the head; avoidance of direct eye contact; lowering of the head and body; tucking tail between the legs; submissive urination) and they lick hands and roll over to expose their bellies. They resist handling, hate to have their feet touched, don't like to be groomed, and often shy away from human hands. These are the fear-biters; they may snap if cornered and will often bite at people who turn and walk away.


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Preventing aggression
The primary goal is simple -- never allow any dog to achieve dominant status over any adult or child. If dogs always know their social ranking and are never allowed to challenge people, they will usually be good family members.

The first rule for preventing problems is to match the right breed and puppy to the right owner. In other words, the Rottweiler or Akita is not a suitable breed for a meek or mild owner or the macho owner looking for a tough, aggressive dog; the Dalmatian and the Flat-Coated Retriever do not fit sedentary lifestyles; the Shetland Sheepdog or the Chihuahua do not like boisterous, rowdy children, etc. Likewise, the litter bully will take over the home of a submissive owner and the shy puppy needs extra attention to adjust to an active household.

Puppy testing done by the breeder can help. The test includes social attraction, following, restraint, social dominance and elevation dominance.

Aggression prevention includes early socialization. Puppies should be handled gently, especially between three and four months of age. They should be hand-fed by children and adults and taught to take food without grabbing or lunging. They should not be allowed to chase children or joggers, jump on people, mount legs, or growl for any reason. They should never receive or be part of rough, aggressive play such as hand-fighting, wrestling, or tug-of-war games. Puppies should never be physically punished for aggressive behavior; instead, they should be denied the rewards of aggression, restrained from repeating the infraction, and taught alternative behavior.

If puppies bite at or jump on children, the children should take charge by screaming "Off!" and crossing their arms (to protect hands and arms from being grabbed) and turning away. Puppies love to play; if fun is denied when they get too rough, they will learn to play more calmly.

Puppy parties, where children of all ages visit and play gentle games and offer food rewards are helpful for the children and the puppy.

The puppy should be part of the family pack and should learn to accept delivery people, repairmen, and other strangers. Once they have been vaccinated against the common canine diseases, puppies should be exposed to non-aggressive dogs so they learn that other dogs as well as other people are friendly.


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Older dogs
Food rewards help train young puppies, but as dogs get older, they must receive praise for good behavior and mild discipline for bad behavior. Dogs should earn everything they receive from their owners. They should sit to receive petting or treats, sit before going out the door, sit before getting out of the car, sit to have the leash attached to the collar. These exercises constantly reinforce the notion that the owner is boss.

Dogs should not be left unsupervised with children, especially children who do not live in the household. Children should be taught to use the basic obedience commands so they can exert some control over the pet as well.

Dogs should not receive excessive praise (or constant petting), especially for doing nothing. Excessive praise and petting elevates the dog's social status and sends him mixed signals.

Neutering male dogs will not solve all problems, but will help prevent dominance aggression and inter-male fighting, particularly when done before the pup reaches sexual maturity.

Finally, prevention of aggression requires that the owner win each and every confrontation with the dog. If the dog wins a showdown by growling when you try to get him off the sofa or take his toy or approach his food bowl, he receives a 'go' signal for the next step in an attempted takeover.


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Genes + environment = temperament
Please remember this, if you don't remember anything else: Once a dog has reached dominant status, punishment cannot be used to correct a dominant aggressive dog!

The trainer may make the dog revert to a submissive-aggressive or defensive-aggressive animal, and the dog may respond to that person out of fear, but it will never be trustworthy around others, even family members. The most that may be accomplished is to reduce the frequency and severity of the aggressive acts.

With biting dogs, humane euthanasia is often the kindest form of treatment. Biting animals often go from home to home and lead a life of fear and severe, inhumane punishment.


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Treatment
Treating aggressive behavior is best handled by a professional animal behaviorist or a very experienced, reputable animal trainer. There are a number of individuals who call themselves animal behaviorists or trainers who are poorly qualified. They often resort to brutal and sadistic methods such as "hanging" and shock collars to correct aggressive dogs. Excessive force and punishment are their main tools.

When seeking a professional trainer, always seek advice from your veterinarian and carefully interview trainers to find the one who uses the least amount of force necessary.

Treatment consists of listing all the things that trigger aggressive behavior and preventing these situations from developing. For example, if the dog growls when you try to remove it from the couch, don't allow it to get on the couch.

The first impulse is to minimize contact between an aggressive dog and the person or people he is most aggressive to. However, this scheme only encourages the dog to become dominant to more and more people and tightens his control of the household. Therefore, the individual who is having the most difficulty with the dog should become the main provider for everything the dog needs food, water, exercise, praise, affection, and all play activity. This person must be able to train the dog to obey basic obedience commands of sit, stay, come, and down. He will probably need a lot of help with the down command (which puts the animal in a submissive position) so he doesn't get bitten.

All other family members must totally ignore the dog no play, food, or affection. The dog must look on that one person as its sole provider of everything.

The dog must be rewarded for any signs of submissive behavior such as ears back, looking away (avoiding eye contact), rolling over, licking, crouching, or lowering the head when being reached for. Any dominant gestures that the dog will tolerate should be used frequently and the dog must be praised and given occasional food rewards for submitting. The dog must earn everything.

Once a dog starts to respond, then counter-conditioning can be started, but this should only be done with a qualified behaviorist-trainer. Counter-conditioning includes working with a dog that doesn't like its feet or hindquarters handled; it is also referred to as desensitizing the dog to certain stimuli or conditions.

To counter-condition a dog that does not like its hindquarters handled, first teach the dog to stand on command, then, with an experienced handler controlling the dog's head, the gently touch the rear end. If the dog submits, praise and give a food treat. Repeat praise and reward for each positive response. Gradually increase the duration and frequency of handling and praise the dog for each act of submission, no matter how small.

Aggressive dogs can be retrained under the right circumstances. Keep in mind, however, before anyone starts a program to correct an aggressive dog, he must realize that the dog may never be trustworthy around other people or children and may bite if provoked. Owners should always be given the cold, hard facts: they should never feel guilty for having an aggressive dog euthanized, but they should also realize that, if they are likely to make the same mistakes with another dog, they should not get another dog.

Do you suspect that your dog is aggressive?
The late Dr. Harvey Braaf VMD listed the following symptoms of dog aggression. None of these symptoms should be ignored; each can be a predictor of serious aggressive behavior. A professional trainer should be contacted if the owner cannot deal with the problem.

In no case should the animal be abandoned to a shelter or rescue organization for adoption by an unsuspecting new owner.
If you think your dog is aggressive check the following symptoms

Excessive barking;
A tendency to snarl, growl, or snap to protect food;
Overprotectiveness of possessions;
Fearfulness in new situations or around strangers;
Severe attacks on other animals, such as cats or livestock;
Attempts to mount people's legs;
Snapping and snarling when petted, groomed, or lifted;
Frequent attempts to chase moving objects such as bicycles, skateboards, cars and trucks;
Repeated escapes from home and long periods spent roaming free
How to Avoid Dog Attacks.
Avoid going onto private property unless specifically invited.
Do not run when confronted with a threatening dog. Running only stimulates the dog to increase its aggression.
Hold your ground and demonstrate moderate dominance by telling the dog firmly to go home. This usually works wonders. Firmly saying "no" and "sit" may also work.
Avoid direct eye contact, which the dog interprets as a challenge. Instead, appear nonchalant.
When the dog begins to back away, slowly retreat also, keeping the dog in view without paying much attention to it. If the dog begins to come back, stop and wait until it moves off again.
Do not try to outdistance the dog on a bicycle. Stop, dismount and stand with the bicycle between you and the dog. Without something to chase, the dog may lose interest.
Do not try to pet a strange, free-roaming dog.
Never attempt to touch or pet a dog that is eating or sleeping.
Do not be embarrassed to jump on a car, climb a tree, or call for help if you are threatened.
Do not be embarrassed to ask a dog owner to restrain the dog until it clearly recognizes you as a friend.
Avoid any encounters with guard-trained dogs. Find out if any are patrolling before you walk in a new area.
Report all aggressive loose dogs or incidents of actual bites.
Keep still and try to remain calm. Do not scream or run. (J. Michael Cornwell, DVM, advises children to "be a tree," with feet together, elbows against your chest and hands under your neck.)
Glance at the dog so you know where it is, but don't stare it in the eyes.
Don't turn your back on the barking animal.
Let the dog sniff you. In most cases, it will leave as soon as it realizes that you aren't really a threat.
Speak to the dog only in a calm voice. You might try: "Go away," "Go home" or "Nice dog."
Wait until the dog leaves, then slowly back away until it's out of sight.
As a last resort, throw or pretend to throw an object at an aggressive dog.
If attacked, "feed" the dog something else--your jacket, bike, purse, books--to distract it.
If knocked down, curl into a ball, and use your hands to protect your head and neck.
Seek immediate medical attention for dog bites. All bites should also be reported to the police or animal-control department.
Gary L. Clemons, DVM
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Hope this is helpful to you!
Glenda
 
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I think the snapping at my son comes from my son usually trying to play with Chase and his toys but Chase doesn't really like to share his toys so much with my son. As for my husband well it's over the bone both accidents happened because Chase felt someone was taking something away from him. Which isn't acceptable but I understand why it's done. The information provided was helpful and I thank you.
 

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well Willy tryed to get agressive over food, with 180# Einstein (GD) Willy he weights 11 pounds

Well Stein won and Willy knows his place, now they are best Buds.

I really hope to post pictuers SOON,
 

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I haven't had to deal with this so I am no help. It must be stressful to have to worry about your child. I hope this can be worked out soon.
 

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I haven´t had to deal with agression either, ever since Glover came Ive made sure Im able to pat him when he´s eating.

The only time he got a bit funny was that he had a small bone in his mouth and we needed to get it out, he tried to snapp but wasn´t successfull, now he lets us just take it.

hope you work things out!!

x
K
 

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Quote:Originally posted by Chase Mommy:
Okay Chase is acting really strange. He just attacked my son. (The growling and barking and jumping at him and my husband had to capture him and lock him away in his kennel) He bit my son... My son wasn't even playing with him. He's become really aggressive over nothing. My son came in the computer room to talk to us and Chase was under my chair playing with his toys and my son came a little to close to his toy (not even thinking about Chase or the toys) and he was bitten. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif :nono5:
What can seem like a sudden change in behaviour may not be so in cases like this.

Every time you took something from Chase like a bone or a toy or yelled at him for going through the bin, he could have seen this as you challenging him. There could have been a slight change in body language that is easy to miss if you don't know what you are looking for each time - in reality, a dog only needs to give you a warning once before it challenges you back by attacking.

How obedient is Chase? Is he allowed on the furniture? Does he obey you command straight away or does it take a few times?

It is obvious that now he has attacked every human in the family that he sees his status as higher than you. It is extremely important that you do not allow your child to be alone or near Chase until you get this behaviour sorted. What can be a simple telling off by an older pack member to a younger one can do serious damage to a child.

As much as the internet can be helpful in sourcing information about this problem the only way you are going to sort this out is to get a behaviourist in to assess Chase - and soon. No one can properly diagnose the problem over the internet without seeing Chase's behaviour in real life.
 

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I've never had a problem with Duke being aggressive, but our older lab, Cassie, taught him from a young age that she is queen of the food. Though none of them have ever shown the least bit of aggression toward us. We can even take bones out of their mouth while they're eating them.

I agree that you should take Chase to the vet to rule out physical problems and let the vet help guide you from there. This must be very worrisome for you, I hope you can find some solutions soon.
 

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Beags are known as "chow-hounds" for a reason!
Even If you own one like my spoiled Goober that
was never starved a day in his life!...Beags are
"hardwired" to eat as often as they can! They
might fool you in their late years like Goober...
But even "Homer-the-Huge" can get fooled by the
odd hours I keep! Last night I expected them to
pester me for their suppper...but they did not
until I started cooking some deer meat & broth with mixed vegetables & pasta!!! :thumbup:
 
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Thanks for all of the replies back guys. You're right Smeagle there was a warning before. He barked at me after I took his first bone away from him but he did not react like that at all. It was more like his usualy barking. Chase is not a well trained beag I can tell you guys that now. He's my little bad boy. He moans and groans when given a command and he takes his own time to do it. I just never thought that he would attept to bit any of us.

It breaks my heart because right now my household is crazy. My husband is with his usual crap "time for him to go" the :soapbox: (he's not really a pet lover like I am. He doesn't understand much of anything about pups and their behaviors) and well Chase is either outside in the backyard or in his kennel. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif I hate keeping him in the kennel so long he cries to come out and play. I agree that he does need to see an professional to correct the problem. But I can't afford that! I just wish none of this happened. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

I understand that Chase shouldn't be around my son anymore. But I feel like he doesn't understand what he does wrong. I'm not much of a "screamer" so Chase is never yelled at. I just tell him "no no" my voice is really soft so sometimes he doesn't even respect it until I walk over to him shaking my head. *Sighs*
 

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I can understand your hubby's concern about Chase's behavior. However, he's not going to learn right from wrong if he's in his crate all the time. You don't need to be a screamer to discipline Chase when he does wrong. Just a sharp "ah" should be enough to make him realize that he's done wrong. Use a water bottle to squirt him when he's doing something wrong. Go and buy a training book at your local book store to work out of. Anything to keep you on track with training (I know I'm not disciplined enough to work on things without direction). Let your son help you. Have him give Chase treats when he's behaving properly so that Chase begins to associate your son with treats and not having to share his toys. That should help Chase start to learn his place in the pack as well. Start training Chase to learn that Nothing In Life Is Free. There's actually a training plan you can look up online called that. Before he even gets so much as a pat on the head make him sit. He'll come around and learn that he's not the ruler of your home. All puppies test their boundries to try and claim their status in the pack. Don't let him get the best of you. I know it's hard when they are so cute. Jersey got away with murder sometimes just because of that sweet little face. Beagle's are high maintenance. They need a lot of TLC at first, but it will pay off in the long run. I am sure that you can do this. You got him housebroke so quickly, you can teach him right from wrong too.

I would still let the vet check him out at your next visit. There could be an underlying problem causing him to be aggressive. If not, I'm sure he can offer some advice on how to handle the situation. Good luck! And don't forget, we're here if you need us!
 
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Quote:Originally posted by jen-n-jersey:
I can understand your hubby's concern about Chase's behavior. However, he's not going to learn right from wrong if he's in his crate all the time. You don't need to be a screamer to discipline Chase when he does wrong. Just a sharp "ah" should be enough to make him realize that he's done wrong. Use a water bottle to squirt him when he's doing something wrong. Go and buy a training book at your local book store to work out of. Anything to keep you on track with training (I know I'm not disciplined enough to work on things without direction). Let your son help you. Have him give Chase treats when he's behaving properly so that Chase begins to associate your son with treats and not having to share his toys. That should help Chase start to learn his place in the pack as well. Start training Chase to learn that Nothing In Life Is Free. There's actually a training plan you can look up online called that. Before he even gets so much as a pat on the head make him sit. He'll come around and learn that he's not the ruler of your home. All puppies test their boundries to try and claim their status in the pack. Don't let him get the best of you. I know it's hard when they are so cute. Jersey got away with murder sometimes just because of that sweet little face. Beagle's are high maintenance. They need a lot of TLC at first, but it will pay off in the long run. I am sure that you can do this. You got him housebroke so quickly, you can teach him right from wrong too.

I would still let the vet check him out at your next visit. There could be an underlying problem causing him to be aggressive. If not, I'm sure he can offer some advice on how to handle the situation. Good luck! And don't forget, we're here if you need us!
Thanks Jen. I was thinking it could be his teeth making him so cranky. He often whine about them until they fell out. He doesn't have any of his k9's right now. They're just beginning to grow back... So that's one thing I was thinking the aggression could be coming from but I will bring this up at his next visit. I've been reading a lot of material so hopefully I can get my boy back on track. Thanks :thumbup:
 

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That's a good possiblity. Teething is definitely painful for them.

Also, make sure that Chase is getting plenty of exercise. Take him for walks and play with him out in the yard. Do you have a dog park nearby that you could take him to? A friend with another high energy dog that you could have some play dates with? Anything to drain that energy. A tired Beagle is a much better behaved Beagle, especially when they are pups. I don't always like Caesar's ways, but that is one thing I totally agree with. He always exercises the dogs he's working with before he starts training. That way they have less energy to resist and are more receptive to doing what he is asking of them.
 

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Buddy gets aggressive when we give him a "real bone" and he will growl at both me and my husband. He has done this twice. Our solution was he doesn't get any bones like that ever. That is the only time he is really bad.

I hope you find out how to change his behavior. Your family and Chase deserve to be happy.
 

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Quote:Originally posted by Buddy's Ma:
Buddy gets aggressive when we give him a "real bone" and he will growl at both me and my husband. He has done this twice. Our solution was he doesn't get any bones like that ever. That is the only time he is really bad.
Well, I can understand this solution, but I would go about it differently. I would take the bone from him, ignoring the growling, and when he sits, say "good boy" and give him the bone back. You can practice this with him, so that he knows he has to work for his treats (and food in general) and he depends on you.

A dog (your dog in particular) should never growl at you, no matter what you take from him.
 
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